where in the world....

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Habràn pasado años o segundos, no se

I meant to leave Oaxaca on Saturday morning, I really did. But then I met a charismatic loquito named Carlos from Torreon, MX who had an extra ticket to go see Lila Downs in concert, and I was convinced that valìa la pena quedarme otro dia. And it did...it was so worth it. In the morning, I went to another small town called Ocotlan, thinking I`d find some artwork by Francisco Toledo, a famous painter, but he`s from Juchitan, not Ocotlan. Instead I saw art by Rodolfo Morales (I think) , who is also fairly famous, but I didn`t love his stuff. The town was nice, and the people were pretty friendly and so I had some interesting conversations.

Then I hopped aback on the bus to Oaxaca, and met up with Carlos. We had an adventure that involved going to the ampitheater where the concert was being held, realizing Carlos had forgotten the tickets, having to go back to get them, but still arriving in time to get a seat. We were kind of off to the side, but in the front. There was a section (front and center) that was blocked off with a rope, and somehow Carlos talked our way in to this section. They later opened it up to everyone anyway, but it was still amazing to watch this kid in action. So we sat in the front freakin' row to see Eugenia Leòn (an amazing Mexican singer), Lila Downs, and Celso Piña (super famoso, plays accordeon, mostly cumbia music) all do a show to benefit the Guadalupe Musalem Scholarship Fund. They were all increadible. I don`t think I can really describe how amazing these women`s voices are, or how perfect the ambiance was on this windy night under an almost full moon. I had goosebumps like the entire time.

There was an announcer who kept the crowd entertained during set changes, and encouraged people to donate $, etc. At one point, she naming places where people in the crowd had come from. Carlos was yelling really loud, so eventually she said "hey, why don`t you come up here", and so there goes my new friend onto the stage to talk on the microphone. This was funny, but then it was even funnier when she asked him to get up again and talk later, and then some time later he jumped up on the stage and started dancing (he does modern and polynesian dance, so just imagine). Then, they let a few more people on to start dancing (this was during Celso Piña`s set), so I ran up there with a woman I was sitting next to. Later on, some borrachito dragged me up there again, and some how or another, I ended up dancing with Celso himself (sort of...it`s hard to dance with someone who`s wearing an accordion). It was pretty surreal and definitely funny.

So, I really did leave Oaxaca on Sunday morning (although I almost missed my bus), and I came to Juchitan, which is in el Istmo de Oaxaca (the isthmus region). My friend Fernando told me all sorts of amazing things about the place and said I had to check it out, but...well, lets just say I`ve had a lot of time to sit and think. I also visited a town called Ixtepec, which is like 30 minutes away. I am glad I came, because it`s been challenging. But, there was really no obvious reason for me to come here, and I definitly felt out of place. Again, I think this is a good thing to experience. If I felt better, I`d make more of an effort to talk to people, but the people are much more reserved here, and I`m feeling a little ill. So, I am leaving. Plus, I think people generally come during other times of the year when there are lots of traditional parties going on. Right now though, it`s just the windy season, and I almost got blown over a couple times with my rather large pack compromising my balance a little.

I am leaving today, and I think I`m going back to Oaxaca instead of Chiapas. It just doesn`t make sense for me to go to Chiapas right now, since I need to be back in Mexico City in a few weeks. There are lots of things indicating to me that I should just on Chiapas, and volunteer with Habitat for Humanity in Mexico City instead.

1 Comments:

  • word. sounds pretty awesome .. please keep sharing, you`re putting lots of nice pictures in my head as I sit here in this dreary office ..

    By Blogger bastardface, at 22.2.06  

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